CH-923 Manual

ch-923 manual

Click on the picture to zoom in .

Coin mechanism wiring

Take notice the RED wire delivered with the coin mechanism is for 12v. If you use a ATX psu the Yellow wire is for 12v and the red for 5v. I made this mistake when starting right away connecting red to red, duh..it won't harm the JPAC since it only got 5volts.

Speaking of 5v. This is what the JPAC expects, and since the coin mechanism operates on 12v you have to make sure to add a zener 5.1v diode or it will damage the JPAC.

This scheme explains how to connect the wires.
(source: ULTIMARC site)

Pin 1 connects to a 12 volt supply. This can be from a JAMMA power supply or a PC disk drive connector (yellow wire).
Pin 2 connects to the J/I-PAC coin 1 input.
Pin 3 connects to GND on the J/I-PAC

So looks like this

ground - zener 5v1 - coin

ground - zener 5v1 - coin

Next update a copy of the CH-923 manual.

Coinmech

No update on the joystick project, it's still pending

But..
Something that had to be added to the cabinet is a coin mechanism. I ordered the item a year ago on Ebay but stopped trying after spending much hours figuring out on how to get it work.

I had the impression the coin mech was faulty, a KAI-638C. Now a year later ordered a new one and do another attempt and must say that I found some new essential information missed back then that very likely is the cause why it failed.

Here's the coinmech talking about CH-923
The blog will be updated next few days with the progress.

Start

ok, made a start with the frame of the Joystick.
measures are 18x29cm

The wood is oak.

New Project

Hi All, just a quick annoucement. I'll soon start building a custom joystick for a NEO-GEO board. Check for examples http://www.joystickvault.com/index.php and you see what it's about.

Mala Frontend Layout

Found this site, http://malafe.net/

check out the Layouts for examples. Some very nice ready to download or to give inspiration to create one yourself.

My favorite so far:  the Mameroom

Almost finished

The end result! What fun it was to create this. There are a few things left to make it 100%

- The bezel exists of 4 seperate pieces mounted together, this will be replaced by one piece of wood using a router. But this takes some practice and maybe a router table to make it easy.
- To Power up the system you have to remove the backdoor and push the original pc switch. It's cooler to have the switch at the back, not such a problem to fix.
-Clean up the wires inside the cabinet. Lot's of loose cables have to be tight together.

-Create a MAME fronted. Í'm still a bit in doubt wich one to use. Hyperspin looks great but it's a bit too much. Not running so smooth on this setup. MALA and Maximun Arcade look promising. I'm not realy interested in the other emulators, only MAME.  An article about this will be written in the blog if i spent some more time on this!

The backdoor. What to tell ;) The 2 green buttons at the top left are on this foto not mounted correctly yet. They are pushed back in the wood now. The function of these are TEST SW and SERVICE SW, meant for original PCB'S.

I read somewhere a tip to place a black&white print behind the color print to protect the darkcolors from being over-lighted. Tried this but it blurred the whole picture. Now it's very bright, with the disadvantage of the dark parts over-lighted. The Marquee is printed on a high quality laserprinter on normal paper. A wish for me is to order the same picture at quality material, like they do at gameongrafix etc. On the wishlist!

The plexi was cut with the smallest jigsaw blade available in the local store. It's a 1-2mm metal blade. They normally cut anti-skid board with it for instance.
Worked well. Cut a medium speed, not to slow and fast or it will break/melt.

The Arcade powered on! My son playing Sega Hang-On. He likes the race games. Enduro Racer, Crazy Race, Outrun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axuYRR6E8Dw